Want a great idea for a birthday gift for Mrs Woodworker? She works hard and a custom made gift like this will go a long way to show your appreciation. In our case, Mrs Woodworker’s grandmother was quite the artist and had done a neat charcoal drawing that was hanging in our house. Unfortunately, the frame was not the right size and was falling apart. The glass in the frame and mat had also discolored over time. I thought a new frame would be a great gift to let Mrs Woodworker see a little return on all the tool investments I had made.
First, start with the print you want framed. All of the dimensions will be generated from the size of that print. Once you have the print in mind, estimate how big the visible portion of the mat should be. In our example, the print is 9 1/2″ by 19 1/2″ and we overlapped the print by a quarter inch with the mat all the way around. Given that we wanted a 2″ wide (visible portion) mat all the way around, our matt needed to be 14″ by 24″. Keep in mind a quarter inch of the mat will not be visible because it will be resting inside the frame. Continuing with our example, the inside dimensions of our frame are 13 1/2″ by 23 1/2″.
Select a wood type and color that complements the pictures in the print. Before going to the wood dealer, read up on our post about buying lumber. In our case, I had some 1″ thick black walnut left over from another project and decided to go with 1 3/4″ wide frames. If your print is bigger than the one in this post, you may want to go with a wider frame to keep the entire piece in proportion.
Rout your pieces first (see picture), then miter in order to clean up any tear out from the routing process. One of the techniques that will prevent tear out is to always place a block behind the piece being routed. This will usually give you a nice clean edge on the trailing edge of the piece after it goes past the router bit. For our frame, I used a 1″ thick piece of black walnut and routed a rabbet (or notch) 1/2″ deep into the piece from the back and 1/4″ from the middle of the picture for the matting to lie against. Use either a straight router bit (I recommend the Whiteside bit # 1086) or the bit from a rabbet bit set (Whiteside #1955). Both bits are available at your local Woodcraft. This leaves 1/2″ of wood showing in front of the glass and leaves enough room for the glass, mat, and any cardboard or plywood backing. The rabbet should be 1/4″ wide all the way around the frame.
Join the corners of the frame with 8 mm x 40mm tenons (see picture) if you have a Festool Domino then glue up. If you don’t have a Domino, you can make an oval hole with a router straight bit and use Festool tenons (available at Woodcraft), or clean out the corners with a chisel and use rectangular tenons.
After you’ve got the mortises cut, it’s time to glue it up. Make sure the piece is square by measuring from corner to corner. If it is slightly off square, use a long clamp to pull the long corners toward each other until the two diagonals across the piece are the same length.
Once the glue dries (best to allow 24 hours), it’s time to add the finish. I prefer a clear finish on top of premium hardwoods so the grain is visible. Check out our post on making a cherry coat rack to see the steps in finishing.
You probably don’t have a mat cutter at home and this is where your local frame shop can really come in handy. If you live near Montclair VA I highly recommend The Framing Outlet. Osman at the frame shop was extremely helpful in picking out mat colors and suggested the double mat design in the picture at the top. You can Google “frame shop” and you should be able to find a shop near you that can help with the matting and glass.
Well that was a lot of math! But if you methodically go through the steps above, you’ll have a beautiful picture frame in just a few hours!